Sunday, February 28, 2010

The Body Project and Advertising

The outline of the origins of various “body projects” throughout the 20th century in “The Body Project,” by Brumberg is an interesting perspective, because I think that contemporary obsession with body image is taken for granted because it is so prevalent. At the beginning of the “century of svelte,” in the 1920’s, the fashionable body type was slender with long legs, and a relatively flat chest (Brumberg 99). That time period also saw an increase of female mobility and autonomy due to increased entertainment options and proliferation of the telephone and automobiles (Brumberg 101). This increased independence marked the beginnings of where self-esteem became based more so on external factors instead of inner qualitie

s, “such as strength of character and generosity of spirit.” (Brumberg 101). The story of Yvonne Blue demonstr

ates just how malleable one’s “image” was perceived to be, even at the beginning of the 20th century. The descriptions of her intentional modifications of her image and her fixation on her worth as determined primarily by external factors is not all too unfamiliar, even though it was almost 100 years ago. Perhaps most importantly, the idea embodied by Yvonne’s purchase of a tight-fitting silk dress, that the body no longer was solely something to be kept private, provided the basis for the immense influence of media and other cultural messages. In the 1950’s, the fash

ionable body type shifted to glorify those with larger breasts, partly in response to popularity of movie stars such as Marilyn Monroe, and thus began the commercialization of bras (Brumberg 108). Gradually, the rationale for the necessity of bras as we know them for ad

olescent girls had both a medical and so

cial basis, with advantages such as preventing “stretched blood vessels and poor circulation” being increasingly cited as time went on (Brumberg 112). This mode of “figure control” was associated with a better life, being prettier, and having more friends through advertisements (Brumber 114). By the 1970’s and 1980’s, the idea of fitness and of a lean “body with visible musculature” became normative (Brumberg 123). This ideal is reinforced not only through celebrities such as

Madonna, but by fashion trends, such as tight-fitting pants and mini-skirts.

Much about the way we perceive our bodies is shaped by the media, especially currently given the increasingly consistent immersion in popular culture due to technology. In “Sex, Lies, and Advertising,” Gloria Steinem describes how advertisers can strongly influence the content of magazines such as Ms. and in many cases have strict stipulations for the desired associations between their products and services and the ideas and topics contained within the magazine. The omnipresence of body image concept is even alluded to by Steinem, who points out that “dress for success” women in 1960’s advertisements were thin, white, and beautiful. In the 1920’s, women’s magazines gradually transformed into catalogs due to advertisements, thus changing the focus to creating a desire for, and teaching women how to use the products that were advertised. In terms of health and beauty advertisements, they surely reflected the ideals and trends described by Brumberg. Though Steinem’s article focused on advertising mainly as an instrument that often presented itself as an obstacle to the feminist image and messages projected by Ms., the general idea of how advertising as a form of media can manipulate other forms of media, which together manipulate consumers of media.

My primary thought on these articles, primarily that of Brumberg, was how similar many of the ideas and woes surrounding body image and dieting from the turn of the century are to today. Today I think that the idea of dieting and body image is taken to another level, with the self-consciousness beginning at an earlier age. In a slightly different vein, the part of “The Body Project” specifically about bras concludes with statement that the development of training bras begin sexualization of the body at an earlier age. Thus changes in fashion have not only blurred the distinction between what is public and what is private with regard to one’s body, but also has narrowed the gap between what is considered juvenile and what is considered adult in fashion. Brumberg contends that fashion reflects behavior by acting as an “interpreter” to onlookers and so dressing young girls in bras and other “adult” clothing articles implies “adult” behavior which translates to marking younger girls as sexual objects (Brumberg 118). Of course, this immediately made me think of raunch culture and Ariel Levy – perhaps a historical prequel to Female Chauvinist Pigs would trace this blurring of the public-private boundary of the body and extend Brumberg’s contentions to be a historical foundation for how our culture got to where it is now with the many ways that people display their bodies.

3 comments:

  1. Since the 1920s, girls have believed that their bodies are the ultimate expression of themselves. In many ways their bodies are a blank canvas to convey a message of their choosing to the world. Over the years new trends have emerged to state new movements and the coming of new generations. In the 1880-1890s, slightly overweight girls symbolized the life of happiness and abundance. However in the early 1900s, like Kirsten said, the vision of beauty shifted from a “voluptuous Victorian hourglass” shape to a “slender, long-limbed, and relatively flat-chested” women (Brumberg, 99). Similarly, where long hair once symbolized wisdom and maturity, the new generation separated themselves from the older generation by chopping off their hair and sporting a bob (Brumberg, 102). Last, young girls started to become concerned with their weights while eating disorders began to rise (Brumberg, 103). All of these trends and shifts embody the saying, “less is more”.
    As a result, I follow Kirsten’s train of thought into raunch culture very well. Watching the trends just highlighted and fast forwarding another hundred years makes the rise in raunch culture seem like a somewhat natural reaction. The trend of training bras and sexualizing the body at an earlier age enabled females to feel sexually liberated sooner. Where a simple haircut used to symbolize something as meaningful as a “new generation”, the movement continued using the same tools to deliver a stronger message. Where short hair may have meant “we don’t want to be seen like our mothers”, posing in the nude might mean something a little stronger like, “we are nothing like you have seen before and we are proud of it”. Although the female population may still be striving for the same bodies older generations were laboring over many years ago—little body fat and a moderate amount of muscular tone—the raunch culture finds a new way to put their accomplishments on display with a new level of pride. Females who participate in raunch culture would never allow their mothers to prevent them from wearing a bra at an early age.

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  2. My response to Kirsten’s Post:


    I am not alone in saying that our society is obsessed with the body image topic.
    When I think of the 1920s, I immediately envision flappers- “slender, long-limbed and relatively flat-chested” women draped in pearls wearing a feather (or some kind of headband) in their short hair (Brumberg 99). However, this ideal image of a woman does not last very long and we are on to the 1950s where the ideal body type of a women revolved around her breasts. Flash-forward 60 years and you’ve arrived in the world of not just thin, but ultra-thin.

    I would love to say that the image of the woman is going to change and move in another direction away from the ultra skinny image, but it’s not- or at least it is not in the fashion world. After having worked in the fashion industry I have not only witnessed, but also promoted this so-called perfect body.

    Models are considered to have the perfect bodies. These models are seen by women of all ages through advertisements and it is through these media campaigns that women are indirectly told that that is what they should look like. However, this task is almost impossible. The models that walk the runway and pose for ads are emaciated looking- they really are nothing but walking skin and bones. After spending a week with some I realized that they do not eat-they just smoke and drink water or diet soda. However, what I think that society misses is the fact that these models are merely adolescents. Once the makeup is wiped off of their faces the majority of fashion models are usually somewhere between the ages of 16-23. Thus, part of the reason why models are able to be wafer-like is the fact that their bodies have yet to develop- they don’t have bodies yet.

    However, once they do get older, these models are expected to keep their bodies slim. The fashion industry is very strict and blunt when it comes to weight. A famous model, Coco Rocha, told New York Magazine that she was told she was too big to walk at Fashion Week, mind you she is 5-foot-10 and a size 4. It is evident that the fashion industry is in no way ready to change. They live by Kate Moss’s quote, “Nothing tastes as good as skinny feels." To me that epitomizes the fashion industry.

    On a side-note I just wanted to make a comment on Gloria Steinem’s article, “Sex, Lies and Advertising”. I was actually some irritated by the end of Steinem’s argument. “Oh women’s magazines…Everybody knows that they’re catalogs-but who cares? (Steinem 1). While I do not disagree with the fact that women’s magazines, especially fashion magazines, have a lot of advertisements; I felt like she was somewhat attacking people who bought into that side of the magazine industry. Yes, while fashion magazines do not the same caliber of articles like those in The Economist or The Wall Street Journal, they are nevertheless pieces of journalism. However, I believe that it hit home with me because it is my goal to have a career in fashion and possibly have that career be in the world of fashion magazines.

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  3. I found Kristin's original post to be a great recap of what Brumberg discusses in her article. I also was prompted by her inclusion of the photo of Marilyn Monroe. I remember coming across an interesting depiction once in some magazine years ago. It had a famous picture of Monroe lying across two-pages, and on top of her body was plentiful red-marks and slashes which indicated what would need to be done to her body in order for her to be considered sexy and slim by today's standards. I always thought that this depiction was interesting, but especially in the context of this class, it has made me wonder even more about why ideal bodies change over time and how we are SO programmed to accept the body that we are currently given in the media as the ultimate ideal. At that, I am quite curious to see where the next ideal body-type the media sells will go, considering she already is at 100-lbs and can't get any smaller.

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